Image of a converse sneaker and a van sneaker
COURTESY OF NIKE (TOP NIKE SNEAKER); SHUTTERSTOCK.COM (ALL OTHER IMAGES)

The Surprising Story of Sneakers

Your favorite kicks are the result of more than 150 years of engineering and design!

By Stephanie Warren Drimmer | Illustrated by Sean McCabe
From the September 2024 Issue

Learning Objective: Students will gather and use information about sneaker designs to create a design for a sneaker.

Lexile: 840L; 600L
Other Focus Areas: Matter, Measurement & Data
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A basketball player dashes down the court. A runner sprints across the finish line. A kid like you strolls outside on their way to the park. What do these people have in common? They’re all probably wearing sneakers!

Today millions of people of all ages wear these comfortable shoes. You can find sneakers specially designed for every sort of activity in all kinds of fun, colorful styles.

It wasn’t always this way. The first sneakers were created more than 100 years ago. They looked a lot different from the sneakers on your feet today. Over time, engineers have improved the design of sneakers to make them faster, lighter—and cooler looking too!

A basketball player dashes down the court. A runner sprints across the finish line. A kid like you strolls to the park. What do these people have in common? They’re all likely wearing sneakers!

The shoes are amazingly comfy. That’s why today millions of people of all ages wear them. You can find sneakers made for every sort of activity. They come in all kinds of fun, colorful styles.

But it wasn’t always this way. The first sneakers were made more than 100 years ago. They looked a lot different from the ones on your feet today. Engineers worked to improve the design of sneakers over time. They’ve made them faster and lighter. They’re cooler looking too!

Rubber Soles

Imagine you’re a tennis player facing a tough opponent. You dart across the court, your racket in the air. Only you’re not wearing sneakers on your feet. You’re wearing a pair of stiff leather shoes with tiny heels!

That’s what many athletes wore in the mid-1800s. Back then, there were no special shoes for sports. That began to change in the 1870s. At that time, a new sport called lawn tennis was becoming popular. Players had to run back and forth across grass courts that were often wet. So they started lacing up a new type of shoe: sneakers!

The first sneakers were made of canvas, a thick fabric used to make a ship’s sails. Their soles, or bottoms, were made from rubber. This tough, flexible material kept tennis players’ feet dry. Plus it was strong enough to handle all the sprinting across the court.

Rubber was not a new material. Indigenous peoples of Brazil and Central America had long worn footwear made of rubber, says Elizabeth Semmelhack. She studies the history of shoes at Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, Canada. “They would drain a sticky liquid called sap from rubber trees and use it to create a form of waterproof footwear.”

Back in 1839, inventor Charles Goodyear added a chemical called sulfur to natural rubber. That kept it from breaking down in very cold and very hot temperatures. By the late 1800s, rubber was being used to make everything from bike tires to car parts to sneaker soles!

You’re a tennis player, racket raised. You dart across the court to hit the ball. Only you’re not wearing sneakers. You’re wearing a pair of stiff leather shoes. They even have tiny heels! 

That’s what many athletes wore in the mid-1800s. There were no special shoes for sports back then. That began to change in the 1870s. A new sport called lawn tennis was growing popular. Players had to run back and forth on grass courts. Often the grass was wet. So they started lacing up a new type of shoe: sneakers!

The first sneakers were made of canvas. This thick fabric was used to make a ship’s sails. The shoes’ soles, or bottoms, were made from rubber. This tough, flexible material kept tennis players’ feet dry. Plus it could handle lots of running across the court.

Rubber was not a new material. Native peoples of Brazil and Central America used it. They’d long worn footwear made of rubber. “They would drain a sticky liquid called sap from rubber trees and use it to create a form of waterproof footwear,” says Elizabeth Semmelhack. She studies the history of shoes. She works at the Bata Shoe Museum. It’s in Toronto, Canada.

Inventor Charles Goodyear improved the material in 1839. He added a chemical called sulfur to natural rubber. That kept it from breaking down if it got very cold and very hot. This rubber was used in many products by the late 1800s. That included bike tires, car parts, and sneaker soles.

MICKAEL CHAVET/RX/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Skateboarder Jordyn Barratt in Vans sneakers

Inspired by Breakfast

Rubber soles cushion the foot. And they create friction, a rubbing force, when in contact with the ground. That helps athletes move without slipping. But rubber is also heavy.

When it comes to running, weight is a big deal, says Geoff Burns. He’s a scientist who works with U.S. Olympic teams. “Cutting the weight by 100 grams—about the weight of a bar of soap—could help athletes run a mile about four seconds faster.” That’s a huge advantage in competitive races!

In 1971, a track-and-field coach named Bill Bowerman had a problem. He had just cofounded a sneaker company called Nike. And he wanted to make a lightweight version of sneakers that had the same cushion and grip as rubber-soled shoes.

One morning, Bowerman was eating a waffle when he got an idea. What if he created rubber sneaker soles with a pattern like a waffle iron? To test the idea, he poured liquid rubber into a waffle iron to create a mold for a new sneaker sole. After several tries, his idea worked! The soles he made had areas that were superthin, which kept the shoe light. The parts with raised squares helped the sole grip the ground.

The design became known as the Waffle Trainer. It was the first big hit from Nike! It kicked off innovations in sole textures that are still happening today. Just look at the bottom of your sneakers!

Rubber soles cushion the foot. And they create friction. It’s a rubbing force against the ground. That helps athletes move without slipping. But rubber is also heavy.

Weight is a big deal when it comes to running, says Geoff Burns. He’s a scientist who works with U.S. Olympic teams. “Cutting the weight by 100 grams, about the weight of a bar of soap, could help athletes run a mile about four seconds faster.” That’s a big gain in races!

Bill Bowerman was a track-and-field coach. He had a problem in 1971. He had just helped start a sneaker company. It was called Nike. He wanted to make lightweight sneakers. But they still needed cushion and grip.

Bowerman was eating a waffle one morning. It gave him an idea. What if rubber sneaker soles had a waffle-like pattern? He poured liquid rubber into a waffle iron. He wanted to make a mold for a new sneaker sole. His idea worked after several tries! The soles he made had thin areas. That kept the shoe light. It also had thicker raised squares. They helped the sole grip the ground.

The design became known as the Waffle Trainer. It was the first big hit from Nike! It kicked off many changes in sole textures. They’re still happening today. Just look at the bottom of your sneakers!

The History of Sneakers

Mid-1800s: Before Sneakers

DADEROT/CC VIA WIKIMEDIA

Some of the first shoes for competitive running were made of leather and had small heels! Metal spikes helped grip the ground. Imagine running in these!

Some of the first shoes for competitive running were made of leather and had small heels! Metal spikes helped grip the ground. Imagine running in these!

1870s: Tennis Shoes

IMAGNO/GETTY IMAGES (TENNIS PLAYERS); ART DIRECTORS & TRIP/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (TENNIS SHOES)

Tennis players began wearing the first sneakers with rubber-soled shoes in the 1870s. The brand Keds began selling the style in 1916.

Tennis players began wearing the first sneakers with rubber-soled shoes in the 1870s. The brand Keds began selling the style in 1916.

1971: The Waffle Trainer

NIKE (WAFFLE TRAINER); SHUTTERSTOCK.COM (ALL OTHER IMAGES)

Bill Bowerman created sneakers with soles patterned like a waffle iron. The texture made sneakers lighter and helped them grip the ground.

Bill Bowerman created sneakers with soles patterned like a waffle iron. The texture made sneakers lighter and helped them grip the ground.

2013: Squishier Soles

DANIEL KARMANN/PICTURE-ALLIANCE/ DPA/AP IMAGES

Adidas made sneakers with superthick foam soles. The material returned more energy to runners, giving them more spring in their step.

Adidas made sneakers with superthick foam soles. The material returned more energy to runners, giving them more spring in their step.

2016: Too Fast?

FRANS LEMMENS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

Runners in Nike Vaporfly shoes won multiple medals in the Summer Olympics. The shoes—which contained stiff material in the soles to spring runners forward—were later banned from competition.

Runners in Nike Vaporfly shoes won multiple medals in the Summer Olympics. The shoes—which contained stiff material in the soles to spring runners forward—were later banned from competition.

Today: Greener Sneakers

RENOVARE

These shoes are made from seaweed!

Sneakers made from plastics cause problems when they end up in landfills. Some companies are making sneakers that can break down naturally.

Sneakers made from plastics cause problems when they end up in landfills. Some companies are making sneakers that can break down naturally.

Spring-Loaded

Around the same time, shoe designers were working on a new material for sneaker soles called foam. This rubberlike substance has air blown into it, making it lighter than rubber.

Foam gives runners another big advantage. As a runner presses down on the foam soles, the air pockets in the material squeeze together. The soles absorb the runner’s kinetic energy and change it to potential energy. When the runner lifts their foot, the foam expands, like a spring. It gives the runner a boost of speed!

Asics was the first company to use foam in sneaker soles, in 1967. In 2013, Adidas introduced sneakers with a new type of thick foam that was more bouncy. It gave runners an even bigger boost! Today the soles of most running shoes contain squishy foam.

Shoe designers were working on a new material around the same time. It was called foam. It was a rubberlike substance with air blown into it. It made sneaker soles’ even lighter.

Foam has another benefit. A person’s foot presses down on foam soles as they run. That squeezes the air pockets in the material together. This allows the soles to absorb the runner’s kinetic energy. It changes into potential energy. The foam expands like a spring when the runner lifts their foot. It gives the runner a boost of speed!

Asics was the first company to use foam in sneaker soles in 1967. Adidas made sneakers with a thicker, bouncier foam in 2013. It gave runners an even bigger boost! Today most running shoe soles contain squishy foam.

FOCUS ON SPORT VIA GETTY IMAGES

Basketball player Michael Jordan in 1984 wearing Nike sneakers designed specially for him

Shoes for All

Over the years, designers have created sneakers for different sports, from basketball to skateboarding. And sneakers are no longer just for sports. People wear them for all kinds of activities, from running around a track to running errands.

Sneaker collectors wait in long lines for limited editions and trade old, retro styles online. To keep up with demand, companies release sneakers painted by famous artists and designed by fashion icons. What kind of sneakers will you wear next?

Designers have created sneakers for different sports over the years—basketball, skateboarding, you name it. And sneakers are no longer just for sports. People wear them for all kinds of activities. That might mean running around a track or running errands.

Sneaker collectors wait in long lines for limited edition sneakers. They trade old, retro styles online. Companies release sneakers painted by famous artists. Or they release ones designed by fashion icons. People always want the latest and coolest designs. What kind of sneakers will you wear next?

video (1)
Activities (14) Download Answer Key
Quizzes (1)
Step-by-Step Lesson Plan

1.  PREPARE TO READ (10 minutes)
Watch a video and summarize the engineering design process.

  • Ask students: What do you think engineers do? What kinds of things do they work on? Play the video “What Is Engineering?” Afterward, discuss what new information students learned about engineers. Write the engineering design process on the board: Ask, Imagine, Plan, Create, Improve.
  • Have students look around the room. Ask: What do you see that has been engineered? Encourage students to share as many things as they can with a partner. Come together and choose volunteers to share. Tell students to look at their shoes; explain that even shoes have been created and improved using the engineering design process.

2. READ AND REFLECT (20 minutes)
Determine key ideas and reflect on shoe design over time.

  • Preview the article’s key vocabulary in the “Look for These STEM Words!” box. Have students preview the visuals in the article. Then read the article aloud, pausing to note key ideas in each section. Connect the changes in sneaker design described in the article to the engineering design process on the board.
  • Have students look at their shoes again. Ask: How do your shoes compare with the different sneakers shown in the article? Do they have materials in common? What activities are your shoes designed for?
  • Have students use the article as a reference while they complete the No-Sweat Bubble Test.

3. RESPOND TO READING (30 minutes)
Analyze shoe attributes and design a sneaker.

  • You may want to bring a range of shoes or photos of shoes to serve as examples of different styles and materials on the day of this activity. You may also encourage students to wear sneakers. Write “Criteria for Sneakers” on the board. Together, brainstorm criteria, or standards, for sneakers (e.g., must grip the ground, be easy to move in, be comfortable). Share the Design a Sneaker activity and complete the first question as a class. Have students complete the remainder of part 1, then discuss their answers in a small group.
  • Remind students of the engineering design process. Note that they’ve been asking questions about their shoes to help them imagine a new kind of sneaker. Preview page 2 and allow students to design and sketch either independently or with a partner. Then break into small groups and have students present their final designs.

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